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Shears are the tool beginners buy last and miss most. I watched two videos that explain the basics, one from a barber academy and one from hairstylist Sam Villa, and pulled out what each type is for. This is a summary of what the videos say. We did not test any shears.
A flag on the second source: Sam Villa sells its own line of shears, and the Q&A video is from 2013. Its advice about length is still useful, but remember who made it.
In this article
Straight Shears vs Thinning Shears
In a short video from the Eighty20 Barber Academy channel, the barber says there are two kinds of scissors in a toolkit. One is the blunt or straight-edge cutting pair. The other is the thinning shear, which some people call a texturizer.
He says thinning shears are what you use for a bit of blending on the sides with scissor-over-comb, or to add texture to the top.
Source: Essential Barber Tools: Scissors and Thinning Shears, Eighty20 Barber Academy.
Quick take
Straight shears cut. Thinning shears blend and texturize. Most barbers end up wanting both.
What Shear Length Is For
The Sam Villa Q&A tackles why shears come in so many lengths. His answer is that it is not only about hand size. Each length does a different job, and he argues against using one pair for everything.
- Around 5.75 inches: short pairs for tight, short cuts, such as working around the ear or under-cutting on a male client. He also associates the smaller size with precision cutting.
- 6.25 inches: a longer blade he reaches for on bobs.
- 7 inches: his go-to today. A longer, heavier shear helps when you take larger sections, compress them and get a softer edge. He also uses it on solid fringes.
His reasoning on margin of error is simple. A shorter shear has to open and close more to cover the same length, so there is more room for error. A longer shear covers more with each cut.
Source: How many shears do you need and what purpose does each serve?, Sam Villa Hair Tutorials. His examples come from salon cutting, so a barber’s tight clipper-over-comb work may favor the shorter sizes.
Good to know
Longer shears take bigger sections and give a softer edge. Shorter shears suit tight, short cuts around the ear.
When a Longer Pair Helps a Barber
The barber academy video adds a practical note for barbers. A 5.5 inch pair is one common size, and a 7 inch pair is another. He says a longer shear helps with beard work and flyaways, and with trimming flyaways on an afro or flat top.
One Pair or Several?
Both sources lean toward having more than one tool. The academy video calls straight and thinning shears the duo of a barber’s toolkit, and Sam Villa says each length serves a different purpose. His newer video description adds that length, blade design, tension and ergonomics all affect efficiency and control.
If you are starting out and do not want to spend a lot, a set that includes cutting and thinning shears with a comb and case is a reasonable first buy. We listed the Sirabe 10-piece shears set in our barber gift guide, with cutting and thinning shears, combs, clips and a case. Check the listing for the exact lengths before you buy.
For the rest of a first kit, see our 12 essential tools for beginner barbers and barber starter kit picks.
Pick this if…
You are a new barber who needs a first pair of straight shears plus thinning shears for blending. Start there and add a longer pair later.
Quick Checklist
- Get a straight pair for cutting and a thinning pair for blending and texture.
- Match the length to the job: shorter for tight work, longer for bigger sections.
- Check blade design, tension and comfort, since they affect control.
- Read the listing for exact lengths and what is in the set.
