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A foil shaver takes the sides and back down to bare skin, but the way you use it decides whether the fade looks clean or like a harsh stripe. I watched a technique video from The Mailroom Barber Co and boiled it down here. This is a summary of what the video says, not something we tested.
A flag: The Mailroom Barber Co is a barbershop and grooming supply brand, so it also sells products. The video is a tutorial and not a product review.
In this article
Do Not Run Straight Up to the Line
The barber says the common mistake is taking the foil shaver straight up to the line and leaving the baldest, harshest edge possible. The fix is to fade the bald out gradually so you do not have to go back and fix it later.
Source: How to use Foil Shavers – Fading Haircut Tutorial, Mailroom Academy (The Mailroom Barber Co).
Quick take
Fade the bald out gradually. Do not run the foil straight up to the line.
The Three Motions
Foil shavers cut slowly, so he says not to tug on the hair. His routine uses three motions:
- Start with a downward motion.
- As the hair gets shorter, move in small circles from side to side.
- Then go up at the bottom, where the skin should be truly bald.
The hair should still be the length of the liner at the top, get gradually shorter, then go truly bald only at the outline. He does not want bald all the way up, because it takes forever to blend that line out.
Good to know
Foil shavers cut slowly, so tugging is the risk. Work with the motions above and let the foil do the cutting.
What About a High Fade?
For a very high fade, such as a military cut, he says to start the shaver up high but still make the transition. Come down with the shaver first, going with the grain so it is softer. Then go side to side. Finally go back up against the grain to get truly bald.
What You Need
A foil shaver is a separate tool from a clipper or trimmer. If you want to compare models, our foil shaver guide for barbers lists the BaBylissPRO UVFOIL, Wahl 5 Star Vanish, Andis ProFoil and Gamma+ Absolute Zero with the maker details. The BaBylissPRO UVFOIL, Wahl 5 Star Vanish and Andis ProFoil are the ones to look at first.
If you are learning the rest of the haircut, see how to cut a fade at home, and for a shaved look all over, our guide to clippers for bald heads.
Pick this if…
You want a skin-close finish at the bottom of a fade. A foil is the tool for taking the sides and back to bare skin.
Quick Checklist
- Fade the bald out gradually and do not stop at a hard line.
- Start down, then small side-to-side circles, then up at the bottom.
- Go slowly, since foils cut slowly and tug if you rush.
- For a high fade, still come down with the grain first, then go against it to get truly bald.
