Clipper guards are the part of the kit new barbers misuse most, and the confusion is understandable: the numbering seems arbitrary, the lever adds three more “sizes” nobody told you about, and Andis and Wahl do not even agree with each other. We watched a clean, jargon-free walkthrough of the Andis guard system on a Master Cordless Li, and once you see the logic, the whole ladder becomes obvious. Here is the system explained, a full size chart, and the one guard combination you should never waste a step on.
Key Takeaways
- On Andis, the lever itself is part of the size system: closed = 0, halfway = 0.5, fully open = 1.
- The fade ladder runs: bare blade closed, bare blade half, bare blade open, #0 closed, #0 open, #1 open, #2 closed, #2 open, #3 closed, #3 open, #4 and up.
- The step to skip: #1 guard with the lever closed cuts the same length as #0 guard with the lever open, so go straight from #0 open to #1 open.
- Andis guards are sharper-edged and scoop hair better; Wahl guards are rounded and sometimes glide over hair without cutting.
- Color-coded guard sets fix the real beginner problem: grabbing the wrong size mid-fade.
Watch the Andis System Explained
In the video above, Richard Razor Sharp walks the full Andis guard ladder on an Andis Master Cordless Li with zero technical jargon, and the walkthrough is worth five minutes before your next fade. No 1/8-and-1/16 talk, just lever positions and guard numbers in the order you actually use them.
First, the Lever Is a Size
Start with the bare blade, because on an Andis the lever is part of the cutting length. Lever closed is the shortest cut, which is your skin level in a skin fade. Lever halfway is the next step up, and lever fully open is a full number-one equivalent. That means before you touch a single guard, you already have three cutting lengths, and a proper fade uses all three. This differs from the Wahl setup, which is why switching brands mid-career trips people up: the muscle memory does not transfer.
The Full Ladder, In Order
The progression from a skin fade upward: bare blade closed, bare blade halfway, bare blade open. Then your first guard: the #0 (magnetic, it snaps on) with the lever closed, then #0 with the lever open. Next comes #1, and here is the trick worth the price of this article: #1 with the lever closed cuts exactly the same length as #0 with the lever open. Do not waste a pass going from #0 open to #1 closed; jump straight to #1 open. From there it is clean alternation: #2 closed, #2 open, #3 closed, #3 open, #4 closed, #4 open, and so on up the set.
Experienced barbers compress this differently, some going from closed straight to open on each guard, some pausing halfway. That is personal preference once your eye is trained. What is not optional is staying under your previous guideline: each new length only touches hair below the line you just set.
Guard Sizes Chart
| Guard # | Cut length | Millimeters | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 (with lever closed) | 1/16″ | 1.5 mm | First step off skin in a fade |
| 1 | 1/8″ | 3 mm | Low fade upper blend, buzz cuts |
| 2 | 1/4″ | 6 mm | Mid-fade body, short crops |
| 3 | 3/8″ | 10 mm | High fade top, longer crops |
| 4 | 1/2″ | 13 mm | Classic medium cuts |
| 5-6 | 5/8″ to 3/4″ | 16-19 mm | Long tops, scissor-fade prep |
| 7-8 | 7/8″ to 1″ | 22-25 mm | Length left for styling |
Andis Guards vs Wahl Guards
Guards are not interchangeable between brands, and not only because of the mounts. In a side-by-side haircut we watched, the barber noted that Wahl guards are more rounded at the edges while Andis guards are sharper and more pointed. In his hands the sharper Andis edges scooped the hair better and combed through more easily, while the rounded Wahl guards sometimes glided over hair without cutting it smooth. That is a real, cut-affecting difference, so match your guards to your clipper family. For Andis Masters, the Andis 01410 Dual Magnet comb set is the stock answer. For Wahl full-size clippers, the Wahl Professional color-coded 1-8 guard set, and the color coding alone fixes the grab-the-wrong-guard problem.
Which Guards Should You Buy?
If you run an Andis Master or similar, buy the magnetic Andis set and learn the lever ladder above. If you run a Wahl Magic Clip, Senior or Legend, buy the color-coded Wahl set and check our Wahl cordless three-way comparison for which machines share which guards. If you are kitting out from zero, our essential beginner tools list includes guards, and our fade-at-home guide uses this exact ladder step by step. Practicing on a $60 clipper first? The budget clippers guide covers which cheap machines still accept standard guards.
FAQ
What length is a #1 guard?
1/8 inch, or 3 mm. With an Andis lever closed, #0 is 1/16 inch (1.5 mm), and the bare blade closed is your skin length.
Why skip #1 with the lever closed?
Because it duplicates #0 with the lever open. Same cutting length, wasted pass. Go from #0 open directly to #1 open.
Do Wahl guards fit Andis clippers?
No. The mounts differ and the guard geometry differs (rounded Wahl edges versus sharper Andis edges). Use guards made for your clipper family.
What guard do I start a skin fade with?
No guard at all: bare blade, lever closed, for the skin level. Then climb bare blade half, bare blade open, and into the #0 guard.
